Along the top edge of the rectangular crown is a series of gold spondylus shells, stylised forms of the thorny mollusc. Sometimes known as the ‘spiny oyster’, these are commonly found off the coast of Ecuador north of Peru.¹ The shell has an orange-red exterior but is white on the inside, and red and white sections were often used in ancient Peruvian jewellery. Stylised versions of the shell (like these) were popular decorative motifs, often incised into various other regalia. Attached to the top of the crown, only four gold thorny mollusc plaques remain intact. Originally the top edges of its front and side panels would have been adorned with eight shells. These were made using a cutting technique, in which a design was traced onto sheet metal and then a chisel was used to cut the pattern out. Many subsequent cultures continued this technique.

While unusual in shape, this crown demonstrates one of the distinctive decorative features common to numerous Vicús metal objects. The crown is formed from 66 square gilded copper plates, with the two top corners attached in such a way that they dangled, creating a sound as the wearer moved. Only the front and side panels are covered with the square pendants, while the back section is unadorned, revealing the three rows of metal ‘stitches’ or ‘staples’ that hold the golden sheets together.

The pectoral is similarly covered, with hundreds of small golden discs. These are only 2.5 centimetres in diameter and have been painstakingly linked together. Each disc has a small hole at the top, through which it is attached to a backing cloth with a small stitch. When worn, these discs would have moved, creating a shimmering of gold. They are, however, made from copper and cleverly coated with a thin layer of gold (see cats 25–28).

Simeran Maxwell

1. Thomas Besom, Of summits and sacrifice: An ethnohistoric study of Inka religious practices, Austin: University of Texas Press 2009, p. 102.

Along the top edge of the rectangular crown is a series of gold spondylus shells, stylised forms of the thorny mollusc. Sometimes known as the ‘spiny oyster’, these are commonly found off the coast of Ecuador north of Peru.¹ The shell has an orange-red exterior but is white on the inside, and red and white sections were often used in ancient Peruvian jewellery. Stylised versions of the shell (like these) were popular decorative motifs, often incised into various other regalia. Attached to the top of the crown, only four gold thorny mollusc plaques remain intact. Originally the top edges of its front and side panels would have been adorned with eight shells. These were made using a cutting technique, in which a design was traced onto sheet metal and then a chisel was used to cut the pattern out. Many subsequent cultures continued this technique.

While unusual in shape, this crown demonstrates one of the distinctive decorative features common to numerous Vicús metal objects. The crown is formed from 66 square gilded copper plates, with the two top corners attached in such a way that they dangled, creating a sound as the wearer moved. Only the front and side panels are covered with the square pendants, while the back section is unadorned, revealing the three rows of metal ‘stitches’ or ‘staples’ that hold the golden sheets together.

The pectoral is similarly covered, with hundreds of small golden discs. These are only 2.5 centimetres in diameter and have been painstakingly linked together. Each disc has a small hole at the top, through which it is attached to a backing cloth with a small stitch. When worn, these discs would have moved, creating a shimmering of gold. They are, however, made from copper and cleverly coated with a thin layer of gold (see cats 25–28).

Simeran Maxwell

1. Thomas Besom, Of summits and sacrifice: An ethnohistoric study of Inka religious practices, Austin: University of Texas Press 2009, p. 102.